Abstract
ABSTRACT The wave climate characterization in coastal environments is essentially important to oceanography and coastal engineering professionals regarding coastal protection works. Thus, this study aims to determine the most frequent wave parameters (significant wave height, peak period and peak direction) in Patos Lagoon during the period of operation of a directional waverider buoy (from 01/27/2015 to 06/30/2015). The equipment was moored at approximately 14 km from the São Lourenço do Sul coast at the geographic coordinates of 31º29’06” S and 51º55’07” W, with local depth of six meters, registering significant wave height, peak period and peak direction time series. During the analyzed period, the greatest wave frequencies corresponded to short periods (between 2 and 3.5 seconds) and small values of significant wave heights (up to 0.6 meters), with east peak wave directions. The largest wave occurrences corresponded to east peak wave directions (33.3%); peak wave periods between 2.5 and 3 seconds (25.6%) and between 3 and 3.5 seconds (22.1%); and to significant wave heights of up to 0.3 meters (41.2%) and from 0.3 to 0.6 meters (38%). This research yielded unprecedented findings to Patos Lagoon by describing in detail the most occurring wave parameters during the analyzed period, establishing a consistent basis for several other studies that might still be conducted by the scientific community.
Highlights
Knowing the wave regime in coastal environments, either oceanic or lagoon, is of fundamental importance to coastal engineering and oceanography professionals
From the wave data recorded by the waverider buoy and transmitted through radio to the antenna installed at FURG – Campus São Lourenço do Sul, it was possible to analyze the occurrence frequencies of the significant wave height and peak wave period parameters according to the peak wave directions
This study allowed the pattern of waves that occur in Patos Lagoon’s main body to be characterized during the period from January 27 to June 30, 2015, by using the measurements made by the directional waverider buoy
Summary
Knowing the wave regime in coastal environments, either oceanic or lagoon, is of fundamental importance to coastal engineering and oceanography professionals. According to Silva and Alfredini (2001), the determination of the wave parameters in the surf zone is essential to design coastal engineering works since they promote the sedimentary transport along the coast, as well as producing forces that act against maritime or lacustrine structures. The determination of the project wave is essential for the stabilization of coastal structures. According to Strauch et al (2009), the wave climate determination in coastal environments is important to engineering projects, navigation safety and coastal management. According to Machado (2013), the wave climate characterization of a region is determined through the statistical standard of the descriptive parameters: height, period, direction of propagation and energy. According to Neves (2014), the heights of gravity waves are determined through direct measurements of the free surface, or calculated from the water column pressure, acceleration of a buoy, punctual velocity of a water column elevation or vertical velocity profile
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