Abstract
Natural dye, as dyeing material, delivers beautiful and distinctive color, synthetic chemical free, easy to get, easy to degrade, and produces non-toxic liquid waste. Natural dyes require mordant to attach the dye molecules into the leather fibers. This study aimed to determine the effect of mordant in the leather dyeing process using natural dyes extracted from Artocarpus heterophyllus Lam wood and Nyctanthes arbor-tristis L. flowers. The treatment was using three kinds of mordant, i.e. alum, citric acid, and zinc sulfate, with pre-mordanting method, 3% by weight of the sheepskins crust leather tanned with chrome and syntan. The result of the dry rub fastness was excellent (score 5). The wet rub fastness of dyed leather with citric acid mordant was good (score 4 - 4/5), while for alum mordant was quite good (score 3/4). Artocarpus heterophyllus Lam wood extract produced better wet rub fastness compared to Nyctanthes arbor-tristis L. flowers extract. Citric acid mordant produced colors with the highest brightness level for both natural dyes extracts compared to alum and zinc sulfate. Artocarpus heterophyllus Lam wood extract produced a brighter color compared to Nyctanthes arbor-tristis L. flowers extract with the same mordant. The visual result of the dyeing process was brownish-yellow.
Highlights
Natural dye is dyeing material obtained from natural resources, such as plants, animals, microbes, and minerals
The purpose of this study was to dye the sheep leather using natural dyes extracted from Artocarpus heterophyllus Lam wood and Nyctanthes arbortristis L. flowers to determine the effect of mordant on color fastness, as well as the region and color difference
Sheepskins leathers were purchased from Piyungan, Yogyakarta; Nyctanthes arbortristis L. flowers were bought from the herbal shop in Yogyakarta, Artocarpus heterophyllus Lam wood chips were collected from a carpenter in Bantul, Yogyakarta
Summary
Natural dye is dyeing material obtained from natural resources, such as plants, animals, microbes, and minerals. With the beginning of synthetic dyes era since the mid-19th century, the use of natural dyes decreased dramatically and practically abandoned by the beginning of the 20th century. Natural dyes are very popular because of the ability to produce a beautiful and distinctive color effect than synthetic dyes. This ability is a very meaningful aesthetic carrying capacity for exclusive products and high artistic value so that they have an appeal to get a specific market segment. Natural dyes are chemical-free, easy to obtain, contain natural components that do not have a pollution load, to degrade, and the dyeing process produces non-toxic liquid waste (Gobalakrishnan et al, 2020). With natural dyeing process has drawbacks, including that it takes a long time so that it requires patience and persistence in the process, and the resulting color tends to be inconsistent
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