Using 17 years of beach/dune profile monitoring to characterize morphological dynamics related to significant extreme water level events in North Brittany (France)

Abstract

Long-term in situ monitoring of beach morphology is crucial for understanding the physical processes of coastal changes and defining the strategies of sustainable coastal management. Monthly surveys based on the beach/dune profile measurements started in July 2004 along six transects distributed along the Vougot beach (North Brittany). The analysis of these data from 2004 to 2021 shows that the eastern part of the beach has experienced chronic erosion during the 17-year period. This erosion has led to a lowering of the beach profile by about −1 to −1.5 m, and has resulted in the removal of beach sand such that waves now impact the underlying Holocene peat and Pleistocene silts or pebbles during most of the year. Conversely, the western part of the beach has accreted. Vougot beach is thus experiencing a rotation phenomenon characterized by a longshore sediment flux from the east to the west. The multidecadal evolution of the beach/dune system is punctuated by events causing significant retreat of the dune, especially when storm waves are combined with high spring tide levels. The event causing the most significant morphological changes was associated with extreme water levels (EWL) up to 9.6 m (i.e., Anne storm in February 2014), causing 14.5 m3 l.m−1 of dune sediment loss. The analysis of 17 years of hydrodynamic conditions (waves and water levels) indicates an increase in the wave runup height (+65 %) and EWL (+17 %). Calculation of the water level that exceeds the dune toe position (Δzexceedance) helps to further quantify the impacts of storm events on dune volume changes. The Anne storm had an EWL with a return period of approximately 13 years, but when combined with the dune toe position, showed the largest dune toe exceedance value (3.0 m), corresponding to a return period of approximately 21 years. Lastly, the events causing the most significant dune erosion during this 17-year study period have also caused shoreline erosion and/or landward barrier migration at many other sites in North Brittany, showing the broader scale impacts of observations at individual study sites.