Under Tension, Under Pressure, Making Waves

Abstract

The Fortuny Delphos dress from the first half of the twentieth century is famous not only for its unique pleated drape but also for the mystery of the technique used to make it. This article details experimental trials with pleating and undulating silk fabric for the creation of replica garments made with these fabrics. The results are placed in the context of prior research and an analysis of a Delphos dress from the 1930s. The final method achieves effects matching the Delphos dress in all the key aspects: fine, irregular pleats with sinuous ripples, both of which are robust enough to survive moderate washing. Additional consistencies with the finer details of the 1930s gown suggest that the methods used to create the replica may reflect some of the historic processes for pleating silk used on the original Delphos.