Abstract

Turbulence and water surface elevation measurements were carried out in the swash zone which was induced by plunging and collapsing breakers in a wave flume. Three different period regular waves were generated on a 1/10 smooth impermeable concrete beach and the water surface elevations were collected by a number of wave gauges and a run-up meter lying on the bottom. Velocity measurements were carried out by a Laser Doppler velocimeter system, at spatial steps of 1 mm from the bottom, along three vertical sections in the swash zone. The data have been used to describe the wave front dynamics, to derive the length and velocity macro and micro scales and the Eulerian frequency spectrum. In some points, it shows a double structure. The results add to and expand on similar results obtained by other researchers in the surf zone.

Full Text
Published version (Free)

Talk to us

Join us for a 30 min session where you can share your feedback and ask us any queries you have

Schedule a call