Trends in the Use of Botanicals in Anti-Aging Cosmetics

Marta Ferreira,José Sousa-Lobo,Rita Oliveira,Isabel Almeida,Maria Magalhães

doi:10.3390/molecules26123584

Marta Ferreira, José Sousa-Lobo + Show 3 more

Open Access

https://doi.org/10.3390/molecules26123584

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Abstract

Botanical ingredients have been used for thousands of years in skincare for their convenience as well as the diversity and abundance in compounds with biological activity. Among these, polyphenols and especially flavonoids have gained increasing prominence due to their antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. In this study, the most used botanical preparations in anti-aging products marketed in 2011 were determined. The analysis was repeated in 2018 for new and reformulated products. The scientific evidence for their application as active ingredients in anti-aging cosmetics and their flavonoid content was also compiled by searching in online scientific databases. Overall, in 2018, there was a noticeable increase in the use of botanical preparations in anti-aging cosmetics. However, the top three botanical species in both years were Vitis vinifera, Butyrospermum parkii, and Glycine soja, which is consistent with the greater amount of scientific evidence supporting their efficacy. Regarding the function of botanical preparations, there is a clear preference for DNA-protecting ingredients. The most prevalent flavonoids were flavan-3-ols, proanthocyanidins, and anthocyanins. This study provided an updated overview of the market trends regarding the use of botanicals in anti-aging products and documented the state of the art of scientific evidence for the most used plants.

Highlights

For thousands of years, naturally derived ingredients have been used as raw materials of skin care products, being derived from mineral, animal, or vegetable sources [1,2].In the 21st century, the use of naturally derived ingredients is still a growing trend, which is possibly due to the influence of the internet and social media
In 2011, 63.8% of anti-aging products contained botanical preparations while in 2018, 73.8% of products contained these ingredients. This corresponds to a 16% increase in a seven-year period, which is consistent with market growth trends [3]
The number of botanical species used in anti-aging cosmetic products per year was slightly higher in 2011, with 106 different species versus 96 in 2018

Summary

Introduction

Naturally derived ingredients have been used as raw materials of skin care products, being derived from mineral, animal, or vegetable sources [1,2].In the 21st century, the use of naturally derived ingredients is still a growing trend, which is possibly due to the influence of the internet and social media. Naturally derived ingredients have been used as raw materials of skin care products, being derived from mineral, animal, or vegetable sources [1,2]. From 2015 to 2019, the global “natural cosmetics” market has been expanding, with 10–11% annual growth. This market represents a great opportunity for the cosmetic industry, since many consumers are willing to pay more for these products [3,4]. In 2011, approximately one-third of ingredients listed by the International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients (INCI) system at the Personal Care Products Council were classified as “botanical extracts”. The INCI name uses the Latin binomial indicating the part of the plant (e.g., root, leaf), and the extraction product (e.g., extract, oil, juice). It is noteworthy that not all these parameters are always indicated in the label of cosmetic products [6]

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