Abstract
The development of synthetic peptides for skin care dates to the 1980s. The cosmetic industry periodically launches new peptides, as they are promising and appealing active ingredients in the growing and innovative cosmetics market. In this study, trends in the use of peptides in anti-aging products were analyzed by comparing the composition of the products marketed in 2011 with products launched or reformulated in 2018. The scientific and marketing evidence for their application as active ingredients in anti-aging cosmetics was also compiled from products’ labels, suppliers’ technical data forms and online scientific databases. The use of peptides in anti-aging cosmetics increased by 7.2%, while the variety and the number of peptide combinations in products have increased by 88.5%. The most used peptides in antiaging cosmetic formulations are, in descending order, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide and Acetyl Hexapeptide-8. In 2011, the majority of peptides were obtained from synthesis, while in 2018, biotechnology processing was the dominant source. This study provides an overview of the market trends regarding the use of peptides in anti-aging products, providing meaningful data for scientists involved in the development of new peptides to identify opportunities for innovation in this area.
Highlights
The anti-aging market is expected to grow at an approximate 8% compound annual growth rate between 2018 and 2021, reaching a value of USD 271.0 billion by 2024 [1]
Comparing the years 2011 and 2018, we found that the use of Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (Argireline®, known as Acetyl Hexapeptide-3), is starting to decline, as it was not found in new products released in 2018
Peptides incorporated in anti-aging cosmetic products from 2011 to 2018 were disclosed and a trend towards increased use was noted, reaching 25% of the anti-aging products from the studied market
Summary
The anti-aging market is expected to grow at an approximate 8% compound annual growth rate between 2018 and 2021, reaching a value of USD 271.0 billion by 2024 [1]. As the competition increases among cosmetic brands from the anti-aging market, new products claim to contain the ultimate innovations in order to stand out, often advertising new active ingredients. Peptides became popular in cosmetic products due to their bioactive properties, as they are able to interact with skin cells by multiple mechanisms, present high potency at low dosage and because their size is thought to achieve a moderate penetration into the upper skin layers. Due to their hydrophilic properties, chemical modifications such as esterification with alkyl chains, may be required to enhance penetration [5,6]. There are peptides whose structure is inspired by naturally occurring
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