Abstract
This article describes transformation of nonlinear surface gravity waves under shallow-water conditions with the aid of the suggested semigraphical method. There are given profiles of surface gravity waves on the crests steepening stages, their leading edges steepening. There are discussed the spectral component influence on the transformation of surface wave profile.
Highlights
Surface gravity waves under shallow-water conditions were of great interest for many researchers many years ago
In work [10] discussed the problem of nonlinear surface waves propagation under shallow-water conditions
As a consequence of the researches made, one could note that the suggested semigraphical method allows to describe the process of the initial sharpening of the surface waves during the propagation under shallow water conditions, and further steepening of their front edge
Summary
Surface gravity waves under shallow-water conditions were of great interest for many researchers many years ago. In spite of their magnetic view, they are rather hard to describe. The research problems of surface waves in the near-shore region within shallow-water model are discussed in [1,2]. Transformation of surface waves in the near-shore region is discussed in [4]. In works [7,8] give mathematic simulation of gravity waves in approximation of shallow water. [8] is concerned with numerical simulation of water waves within nonlinear-dispersive model of shallow water taking account of bed topography. Experimental data on influence of the dispersion effects on the propagation of nonlinear surface waves in inshore area are given in [9]
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