Abstract

The elemental composition of about 60 items of precious and non‐precious jewelry in the Indian retail market has been explored through x‐ray fluorescence (XRF) measurements using silicon drift and high‐purity germanium detectors. The proportions of various elements have been established through the use of Gaussian fitting and background subtraction routines, along with corrections for photopeak detection efficiencies at different energies. Tabulated XRF yields were accounted for in the determination of proportions however matrix correction and absorption enhancement effects, if present, could not be included. The non‐destructive characterization and quantification allowed by x‐ray spectrometric methods indicate the presence of significant amounts of toxic bromine and antimony in fashion jewelry. A disturbing trend observed in many items of non‐precious, metal imitation jewelry is that carcinogenic cadmium is the predominant constituent (around 80% w/w) which poses a significant health hazard for a large section of the population. The proportion of cadmium is found to be far greater than the minor fractions reported earlier. It has been determined that cadmium continues to be added to precious jewelry, albeit in smaller amounts, though its use is restricted by existing regulations. This pan‐Indian study underscores the urgent necessity to inspect and regulate, particularly the metal imitation and fashion jewelry business, in order to mitigate the harmful effects of some of the constituent elements on human health and the environment.

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