Abstract
Grape pomace retains polyphenols in the peels and in the seeds after winemaking, which is indicative of the high valorization potential of this industrial waste. There is strong evidence that phenolics are robust antioxidants and confer photoprotection; thus, it is rational to apply these active compounds from winemaking waste to sunscreens, in order to increase UV protection. Despite the importance of this class of cosmetics to public health, more efficacious strategies are still needed to overcome the problems caused by the photoinstability of some UV filters. The hydroethanolic extract of Vitis vinifera L. grapes was obtained by percolation and then lyophilized. Six formulations were developed: Type I—cosmetic base and UV filters; Type II—cosmetic base and extract; and Type III—cosmetic base, extract and UV filters. Each formulation was prepared in the pHs 5 and 7. The antioxidant activities of the samples were measured by DPPH• and expressed in Trolox® equivalents (TE), and their photostability and in vitro sun protection factor (SPF) were analyzed by diffuse reflectance spectrophotometry. The anti-radical efficiencies observed in the formulations with grape extract were: (II) 590.12 ± 0.01 μmol TE g−1 at pH 5 and 424.51 ± 0.32 μmol TE g−1 at pH 7; (III) 550.88 ± 0.00 μmol TE g−1 at pH 5 and 429.66 ± 0.10 μmol TE g−1, at pH 7, demonstrating that the UV filters, butylmethoxydibenzoyl methane, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate and ethylhexyl dimethyl 4-aminobenzoic acid had no influence on this effect. The photoprotective efficacy and the photostability of formulation III containing the extract and UV filters at pH 5 suggested that a synergism between the active molecules provided an 81% increase in SPF. Additionally, this was the only sample that maintained a broad spectrum of protection after irradiation. These results confirmed that the grape pomace extract has multifunctional potential for cosmetic use, mainly in sunscreens, granting them superior performance.
Highlights
Grapes were introduced in southern region of Brazil in the 19th century with the arrival of Italian immigrants to Serra Gaúcha, who had the tradition of producing wine for their own consumption [1].Vitis vinifera L. is one of the most frequently-cultivated grape species, and it is economically important for manufacturing food, wine and other beverages
The antioxidant activity found in grape extracts has been attributed to the presence of phenolic compounds [8], including the large class of flavonoids with low molecular weights, that shield the plant from photodamage
Results showed that formulation Type III, that combined filters and grape pomace extract, was Results showed that formulation Type III, that combined filters and grape pomace extract, was more effective against UVA and UVB radiations than the other samples, reaching sun protection factor (SPF) values above 76 more effective against UVA and UVB radiations than the other samples, reaching SPF values above and the critical wavelength of 380.00 nm at pH 5
Summary
Grapes were introduced in southern region of Brazil in the 19th century with the arrival of Italian immigrants to Serra Gaúcha, who had the tradition of producing wine for their own consumption [1].Vitis vinifera L. is one of the most frequently-cultivated grape species, and it is economically important for manufacturing food, wine and other beverages. Several cosmetics containing grape extracts have been successfully marketed. Incomplete extraction of compounds such as polyphenols during winemaking, leads to about. 70% of the initial active substances remaining in grape pomace waste [3], 20–30% in peels and 60–70%. Considering the bioactive potentials of these polyphenols, especially flavonoids, the valorization of this type of industrial waste provides a natural raw material of relatively low cost and wide availability [6]. Grapes are rich in antioxidants with anti-inflammatory, antiallergenic, anticarcinogenic, cardioprotective, antithrombotic and hair-stimulating activities [7]. The antioxidant activity found in grape extracts has been attributed to the presence of phenolic compounds [8], including the large class of flavonoids with low molecular weights, that shield the plant from photodamage
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