Abstract
In winemaking, a large amount of grape pomace is produced that is rich in polyphenolics and highly beneficial for human health, as phenols are useful for skin ultraviolet (UV) protection. In this investigation, we evaluated the safety and clinical efficacy of a sunscreen system containing a grape pomace extract from Vitis vinifera L. as a bioactive ingredient. The recovery of phenolics in the waste was performed by percolation. Nine emulsions were developed using a factorial design and two were evaluated clinically: Formulation E, containing only UV filters (butylmethoxydibenzoyl methane, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate and ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA), and F, with the extract at 10.0% w/w + UV filters. The antioxidant activity was determined by the DPPH assay and the in vitro efficacy was established by sun protection factor (SPF) measurements (Labsphere UV-2000S). Clinical tests were performed to determine safety (human repeated insult patch test) and to confirm efficacy (photoprotective effectiveness in participants). The results showed a synergistic effect between the sunscreen system and the extract on UVB protection and antioxidant activity. Both samples were considered safe. Formulation F was 20.59% more efficient in protecting skin against UVB radiation, taking approximately 21% more time to induce erythema compared to the extract-free sample.
Highlights
Over time, functional and morphological changes in the skin are inevitable, increasing the susceptibility to viral infections, carcinogenic processes [1], and hyperpigmentation [2]
This study investigates the safety and photoprotection of cosmetic formulations containing a mixture of the different concentrations of chemical filters: butylmethoxydibenzoyl methane, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA, and dry grape pomace extract
The adjusted regression models allowed for the prediction of the influence of independent variables (UV filter amount/concentration (X1), extract concentration (X2) and irradiation time (X3) in response curves for the solar protection factor (Y1), antioxidant activity (Y2), critical wavelength (Y3), UVA transmittance (Y4), UVB transmittance (Y5), and UVA/UVB ratio (Y6)
Summary
Functional and morphological changes in the skin are inevitable, increasing the susceptibility to viral infections, carcinogenic processes [1], and hyperpigmentation [2]. As the efficiency of endogenous antioxidants decreases, reactive species induce systemic damage [3]. Environmental factors can accelerate natural skin aging and cell proliferation. UVA radiation degrades the extracellular matrix of the collagen and elastin fibers in the dermis, leaving the fibroblasts less active and favoring the appearance of fine lines and deep wrinkles. UVB radiation is involved in the direct effects on DNA and the induction of matrix metalloproteinase 1 expression [4]. Photoprotection can delay or prevent precancerous lesions and UVB-induced immunosuppression in human skin. Sunscreens minimize damage through physical and chemical mechanisms
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