The study of needle type influence on woven fabric surface area during the sewing process

Abstract

The aim of this study was to investigate the damage to cotton fabrics (ticking and damask) caused by stitching with three types of needle point shapes (R, SES and SUK) and four needle sizes (70, 80, 90 and 100 Nm). Damage to the yarn and the surface area of the hole were investigated. Based on the results, it can be concluded that two types of damage occur during sewing: the needle passes through the warp/weft (it displaces the yarn) and the needle damages the warp/weft. An analysis and comparison of the surface area of the holes was carried out, obtained by a computer program based on microscopic images. The results show greater damage to the yarn at the needle piercing point in the ticking due to higher density, friction and low yarn migration. The largest surface area of the holes was produced when sewing with SUK-designated needles on ticking and damask. When sewing damask, R-designated needles cause the least damage to the piercing point, whereas SES-designated needles give the best results when sewing the ticking. Thread damage was further confirmed by testing the tensile properties of the yarn at the needle piercing points.