Multi-response optimization of sewing process using Taguchi and desirability analysis function

Abstract

There are many elements that affecting the quality of the garment such as fabric, sewing thread, needle, sewing machine settings, and sewing ability in garment manufacture. Sewing process is one of the important elements that affect the quality of the garment. The type of fabric weight studied was for mediumweight level fabric with sewing process parameters such as stitch density, upper thread tension, and needle size. The responses assessed in this research were seam pucker, seam strength and cycle time. Orthogonal Array (OA) L9 is used to conduct experiments on this research. Multi-response optimization of the sewing process is carried out using Taguchi and Desirability Function Analysis (DFA). The optimized conditions were found to be TC 193 type of fabric weight, 14 spi stitch density, 110 grams of upper thread tension and 14 needle size. The percentage contribution of the seam quality was obtained using analysis of variance (ANOVA). The experimental results showed that the stitch density (26,92%), type of fabric weight (25,97%) and needle size (23,93%) contributed greatly to the overall response. The optimum condition value for seam pucker (3,83 ± 1,12), seam strength (19,37 ± 2,50 N) and cycle time (18,44 ± 2,77 s) are above the specified minimum requirements. Finally, the confirmation experiment verified that the Taguchi method was successful in optimizing sewing parameters of each response.