The social construction of “popular” foods

Abstract

This research article explores the relationship between origin and product in the context of the economy of qualities, which emphasizes the constructed and negotiated nature of product characteristics in modern market economies. Focusing on the Ribera del Guadiana Designation of Origin (DO) in Extremadura, Spain, the study investigates how specific actions contribute to linking particular attributes to a geographical location and vice versa. The analysis reveals that the relationship between origin and product is not fixed and stable but constantly recreated through processes that combine standardization and contingency. The article highlights the performative dimension of the “origin” category, showing how it associates the qualities defining the product's uniqueness and connects it to a specific place. The study draws on ethnographic research conducted at the Almendralejo Enological Station, which plays a crucial role in regulating the Ribera del Guadiana DO. Two specific processes of diversified standardization—ripeness control and harvest window adjustment, as well as organoleptic analysis and analytical sample control—are examined in detail. The findings demonstrate the procedural construction of the DO Ribera del Guadiana object and emphasize the role of coordination among various agents in stabilizing product properties. By tracing the journey of the object from the vineyard to the laboratory and through the analytical report, the article sheds light on the dynamic nature of standardization processes and their impact on the relationship between origin and product.