The Integration of the Modern Kebaya with Gothic Aesthetics in a Womenswear Collection as an Embodiment of Women's Empowerment

Abstract

This study examines the visual aspects of the discovery and modernization of Indonesian Kebaya. The Kebaya’s integration with the Gothic style is considered an example of its modernization. The combination of these two aspects, in addition to its innovative nature, serves as a means of preserving the cultural significance of Kebaya both domestically and globally. The Gothic style is a popular fashion trend among the younger generation. The Kebaya and Gothic styles share historical connections as they both served as emblems of women’s resistance and independence in previous eras. In terms of visual aesthetics, there are notable similarities between the Kebaya and Gothic styles, particularly in their use of lace fabric and form-fitting silhouettes. In addition to this, the examination of the Kebaya and Gothic style, frequently associated with women, suggests that the incorporation of Gothic elements into the modernization of the Kebaya can serve as a symbol of women’s emancipation. The present study employs a qualitative research methodologies, including a comprehensive literature review, trend analysis, and design and material explorations. The exercise produced a collection of ten distinct designs, each of which is manifested in four different product realisations. The collection encompasses a range of garments, including Kebaya shirts, pants, skirts, bralettes, and corsets. These pieces predominantly include black hues and exhibit fitting body forms. Additionally, they are decorated with metallic hardware accents and embellishments, which are applied to lace and denim fabrics. The purpose of this collection is to ensure the preservation of the Kebaya as an integral part of Indonesian culture while also allowing it to coexist with contemporary pop culture. This approach aims to maintain the relevance of the Kebaya in an ever-evolving and modern society. Keywords: Kebaya, gothic, modernization, culture, preservation, fashion