Abstract

Across the Cantonese diaspora, dim sum establishments have been a critical cultural hubfor immigrant communities. Dim sum are the foods that are consumed during yum cha, a popularCantonese brunch meal with shareable dishes and tea. Dumplings, buns, noodles, stews, desserts,fried delectables, and other dim sum come in a variety of flavor profiles, textures, and shapes,making the yum cha process one filled with joy and plentitude. Popularized in Southern China,yum cha became a staple morning cuisine for the working class by the mid-20th century. Itspopularity and other restaurant innovations elevated dim sum from street food to indoor diningfood. Labor migrations within the last century have brought Cantonese cuisine to the rest of theworld, including Southeast Asia, Australia, the United Kingdom, and North America. ForChinese communities overseas, the establishment, performance, and preservation of native foodsbecomes a process of recreating home and belonging in the resettlement society. In particular,yum cha comes with a formal set of etiquette and customs which emulate cultural values, oralhistories, and social hierarchies. From the distribution of tea to the festive dining ambiance, yumcha provides a collective culinary citizenship and communal space for immigrant communities.More than a physical recreation of home, yum cha becomes a socio-cultural transitory space forthe Cantonese diaspora to actively practice cultural traditions and teach future generations.

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