The Four Traditions of Coastal Geomorphology

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Following perspectives on the distant past and changing notions of time and space, this essay identifies four traditions in the growth of coastal geomorphology from the Renaissance to 1950, namely those based on Earth science, mathematical theory, ocean science, and engineering. Each with its own methods and goals, and never mutually exclusive, these traditions reflected the changing scientific milieus of their time. The Earth science tradition grew from quaint description, early constrained by biblical notions but later enlightened, to a better understanding of coastal forms and processes after 1800. The mathematical tradition emerged from theoretical and experimental studies of tides, waves, and currents, which earlier led to equilibrium and dynamic tidal theories and then, after 1800, to distinctions between deep-water and shallow-water waves, oscillatory and translatory waves, and a better understanding of nearshore wave deformation and decay. The ocean-science tradition reflected the global explorations and navigational aids of early modern times, and the gradual acquisition of real data on tides, waves, currents, coastal forms, and sediment. After 1850, scientific oceanography improved understanding of ocean processes and sedimentation, and the eustatic and isostatic forcing of sea-level change. The coastal engineering tradition emerged from the need to address real issues, such as erosion, flooding, reclamation, navigation, and harbor development. Since 1950, these four traditions have been welded into the modern practice of coastal geomorphology, from which six themes are selected as exemplars: information technology (including emergent remote sensing as a fifth tradition), coastal tectonics, refinement of form–process relations, relative sea-level change, rates of coastal change, and coastal management.