Abstract
Testa for chemical damage to the wool fibre are classified according to the type of modification measured. Microscopical and staining tests are discussed, and a new test for alkaline damage is described. The swelling of wool fibres in aqueous buffer solutions has been accurately measured using a centrifuge technique under easily reproducible controlled conditions. Rupture of disulphide bonds by alkaline modification has been shown to lead to a rapid increase in percentage swelling, which can be used as a measure of damage. A slight proportional decrease in swelling capacity results from dyeing, and an interesting distinction has been made between neutral‐dyeing metal‐complex dyes and other types of wool dyes. Chrome dyeings possess greater resistance to alkaline attack than undyed wools.
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