The Cape Point wave record, extreme events and the role of large-scale modes of climate variability

Abstract

Situated on the southwestern coast of South Africa, Cape Point is directly impacted by ocean surface waves generated by midlatitude cyclones in the westerly wind belt. Severe swell events have a huge impact on coastal communities, infrastructure and maritime operations. We use the long term Council for Industrial and Scientific Research (CSIR) Cape Point Waverider buoy data and WaveWatch III model data together with atmospheric reanalysis data to investigate the role of the El Niño Southern Oscillation (ENSO) and the Southern Annular Mode (SAM) and their associated adjustments of cyclone tracks and intensities on the variability and extreme events of the Cape Point wave record. During austral summer (DJF), when the waves are generally smaller and more southerly, SAM and ENSO tend to result in robust responses: a negative (positive) SAM tends to result in bigger (smaller) more westerly (southerly) waves, while a positive (negative) ENSO results in bigger (smaller) waves from a more westerly (southerly direction). The mean austral (JJA) winter waves do not respond coherently to either SAM or ENSO. A shift in the wave characteristics between periods 1980–1992 and 1994–2006 is clear. The waves become smaller and more southerly during the latter period. This shift is associated with the shift to a more coherently out of phase relationship between SAM and ENSO, dominated by a positive SAM and negative ENSO, that amplifies the wave response, giving rise to smaller waves from a more southerly direction. During summer months there is a significant reduction in not only the mean wave heights, but also the extreme wave heights between the two periods, while during winter months there is only a significant change in the mean wave direction that becomes more southerly during the latter period. During a positive ENSO and negative SAM combination, the summer extreme wave heights tend to be more westerly while the inverse combination does not produce a robust result. Finally, we show that during summer months a positive (negative) ENSO leads to more frequent extreme wave events. On the other hand, a positive (negative) SAM leads to less (more) frequent extreme wave events during winter months.