Abstract

The ability to quantify hair property changes in response to treatment is essential to the successful development of new formulations and benefiting agents. In the attempt to expand the toolbox of hair tress testing tools, we developed a device that allows hair scientists to measure hair tress changes in stiffness and lubricity. The tool is based on a system of pins mounted on free rotating bearings and is operated in two modes: rotating and stationary. The hair attributes are measured by threading a hair tress through the pin assembly and measuring the total work of pulling through in rotational and stationary modes (the latter mode is obtained by immobilizing pins by a retaining plate). The data thus obtained is de-convoluted into the work of apparent stiffness (rotational mode) and the work of the friction-on-pins or lubricity (stationary mode minus the apparent stiffness). The data can be further reduced to produce an apparent friction coefficient defined as a ratio of the apparent lubricity to the apparent stiffness. This work demonstrates the utility of the parameters measured by the Aqualon SLT and illustrates how the device can be used to predict and understand the impacts of various hair treatments.

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