Taste and place of Nanxiong cuisine in South China: a regional analytical framework

Abstract

ABSTRACT Food taste should be considered in-place. This paper employs a regional analytical framework that is suggested by new regional geography to analyze relations between taste and place, and broadly, people and cuisine. We problematize fixed links between place and taste by asking how tastes are developed as rooted qualities of a place and its cuisine. Focusing on spicy taste as a cultural construct in China’s context, climate and landscape characteristics, geographical proximity, and inhabitants’ collective engagement are examined and identified as three factors that co-influence the construct of spicy taste, which we see as a vital shaper of the cuisine of Nanxiong in the mountainous north of China’s southern Guangdong Province. We build a spatial regional hierarchy centered on spicy taste and find a correct and meaningful scale – the region of Guangdong Province. In highlighting the importance of considering the flavor principle in place, we call for more efforts to adopt a regional perspective in exploring multi-scalar and place-bounded food and taste issues.