Abstract
AbstractThis is the first of a 2‐part series concerning remote observation and wave‐by‐wave analysis of the onset of breaking in the surf zone. In the surf zone, breaking waves drive nearshore circulation, suspend sediment, and promote air‐sea gas exchange. Nearshore wave model predictions often diverge from in situ measurements near the break point location because common parameterizations do not account for the rapid changes that occur near the onset of breaking. This work presents extensive methodology to combine data from a line‐scanning LIDAR and thermal infrared cameras to detect breaking, classify breaker type, and measure geometric wave parameters on a wave‐by‐wave basis, which can be used to improve breaker parameterizations. Over 2,600 non‐breaking and 1,600 breaking waves are analyzed from data collected at the USACE Field Research Facility in Duck, NC, including 413 spilling and 111 plunging waves for which the onset of breaking was observed. Wave height is estimated using a spatio‐temporal method for wave tracking that preserves the sea surface elevation maximum and overcomes field of view limitations. Methods for estimating instantaneous wave speed are refined by fitting a skewed Gaussian function to each wave profile before tracking the peaks. Wave slope is estimated from a linear fit to the upper 80% of the wave face, which provides a robust metric and strong correlation with geometric wave slope defined relative to mean sea level. Finally, breaking wave face foam coverage is analyzed to assess common model assumptions about roller length for wave energy dissipation parameterizations.
Published Version
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