Standardization of Poly Herbal Cosmetic Formula on Abnormal Pigmentation in Cutaneous Wound Healing – A Preliminary Study

Abstract

Abnormal pigmentation in cutaneous wound healing has become a major cosmetic issue in the current society. Rising popularity of green labeled cosmetics which are environmentally sustainable with minimum side effects have greater demand in the world cosmetic market. Standardization of herbal formula is essential in order to assess the quality of drugs. Hence, the research study was designed to standardize the selected herbs based on comprehensive literary study on selected Varnaya Dravya (complexion promoting herbs) mentioned in Ayurveda authentic texts and Sri Lankan traditional manuscripts comprising of Terminalia chebula Retz, Terminalia belerica (Gaertn). Roxb, Phyllanthus emblica Linn, Rubia cordifolia Linn, Curcuma longa Trim, and Sesamum indicum Linn. Authentication of herbal ingreedients has been carried out at Bandaranayaka Memorial Ayurveda Research Institute, Nawinna, Sri Lanka. Microscopic identification, Moisture content, pH value, Total ash content and Colouring matter were tested determind through paper chromatography under WHO (2011) guidelines. Microscopic identification revealed that the poly herbal cosmetic formula in powder form contains yellow colour cells, stone cells, group of elongated stone cells, transparent cells, pitted vessels, spiral vessels, vessels filled with red, small fibers, oil globules, starch granules, needle shape crystals, hair and Trichoid. Moreover, moisture content of the formula was 6.3%, pH - 5.92 and total ash value - 4.45%. Determination of colouring matter indicated formula does not contain synthetic dyes. In addition, secondary plant metabolites like phenolic, tannins and saponins were present. Pharmacodynamics potential of the formula showed 25% kashaya (astringent) and tiktta (bitter) rasa (taste) accordingly. Further, 46% and 27% of formula showed ruksha (dryness) and laghu (lightness) guna (properties) along with 83% and 67% indicated ushna virya.
 (hot in potency) and madura (sweet) vipaka respectively. Due to presence of secondary metabolites, the poly herbal formula has anti-bacterial, anti-fungal and anti-oxidant potentials which will be favorable for skin complexion protection from bacteria and fungi. Moreover, Lekhana action gives scraping effect which is important for removing the scar.
 The study suggested that parameters found to be sufficient to evaluate the herbal cosmetic powder and could be used as reference standards and applicability of this formulae should be validated with a preclinical and clinical trials.