Spatial distribution of wave energy over complex coastal bathymetries: Development of methodologies for comparing modeled wave fields with satellite observations

Abstract

In this study we show that spectral and phase-resolving wave models, used for coastal engineering applications, can provide significant differences in the local wave heights and wave power magnitude in the presence of strong bottom-induced refraction. We present here methodologies to compare, in a consistent manner, model outputs to an alternative source of spatial data derived from Synthetic Aperture Radar (SAR) satellite images. Normalized amplitude-derived data are computed from SAR images, compared to both normalized amplitude-derived map from a phase-resolving model outputs and normalized significant wave height-derived map from a spectral model. Two methodologies of SAR images analysis are developed in this paper. While one appears unsuitable due to stochastic wave group modulations, the second methodology provides encouraging similarities between the SAR data and the phase-resolving model outputs.