Abstract
Photoaging occurs by chronic skin exposure to the sun and ultraviolet irradiation and leads to skin aging accompanied by a lack of skin hydration. We previously demonstrated the photoprotective effect of fermented Cyclopia intermedia (honeybush) extract on the skin. In this study, we evaluated the skin hydration effects of scaled-up fermented honeybush extract (HU-018) against ultraviolet B (UVB) radiation in HaCaT immortalized human keratinocytes and hairless mice. Pretreating HaCaT cells with HU-018 attenuated the decreased hyaluronic acid (HA) levels and mRNA expression of genes encoding involucrin, filaggrin, and loricrin by UVB irradiation. HU-018 treatment also ameliorated the decreased stratum corneum (SC) hydration and the increased levels of transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and erythema index (EI) in hairless mice after UVB exposure. Microarray analysis revealed changes in gene expression patterns of hyaluronan synthase 2 (Has2), transforming growth factor-beta 3 (TGF-β3), and elastin induced by HU-018 in UVB-irradiated mice. Consistently, the mRNA expression of Has2, TGF-β3, and elastin was increased by HU-018 treatment. Moreover, HU-018 restored the increased epidermal thickness and collagen disorganization in skin tissue of UVB-irradiated mice. HU-018 treatment also decreased matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) expression and increased procollagen type-1, elastin, and TGF-β1 expression. In conclusion, we found that HU-018 promoted skin hydration processes in UVB-irradiated keratinocytes and hairless mice by modulating involucrin, filaggrin, loricrin, and HA expression and ameliorating visible signs of photoaging. Thus, HU-018 may be a good skin hydration agent for skin care.
Highlights
Cyclopia intermedia is a herbal tea indigenous to South Africa that is traditionally used for medicinal purposes and is highly similar to Rooibos [1]
We investigated the expression of involucrin, filaggrin, and loricrin in ultraviolet B (UVB)-induced HaCaT cells after treatment with HU-018 [7]
The mRNA expression of genes encoding involucrin, filaggrin, and loricrin decreased upon UVB exposure in HaCaT cells compared with expression in normal control cells, and their expression increased upon treatment with HU-018 (Supplementary Figure 1)
Summary
Cyclopia intermedia (honeybush) is a herbal tea indigenous to South Africa that is traditionally used for medicinal purposes and is highly similar to Rooibos [1]. We presented evidence of the antiwrinkle activity of fermented C. intermedia (honeybush) extract and demonstrated the feasibility of using this extract in animal models [6]. The production of fermented honeybush extract would need to be scaled-up for use in a clinical trial, both in terms of quantity and cost. Basic laboratory-scale studies are designed to determine the Evidence-Based Complementary and Alternative Medicine in vivo efficacy of an active pharmaceutical ingredient in the early stages, without specific regard to its safety, production cost, or stability of the development process of the product. Transitioning from laboratory-based research to the trial phase requires scaling-up the production of the active ingredient to establish its safety and efficacy, as well as to ensure cost-effective production. The effects of HU-018 on UVB-irradiated damage were previously evaluated in HaCaT cells [7]
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