Separation and identification of polar polyphenols in oily formulation using high-performance thin-layer chromatography and mass spectroscopy techniques

Ophélie Fadel,Pierre Bauduin,Jean-Charles Gaillard,Olivier Diat,Donatien Gomes Rodrigues,Annabelle L’Hermitte,Anne Rossignol-Castera,Luc Girard

doi:10.1051/ocl/2018039

Abstract

In cosmetics, there is some interest to solubilized polar antioxidant molecules in oil. This is a matrix that can indeed protect these fragile molecules against oxidation and that makes possible the polar antioxidants transfer through the epidermis in order to be delivered within the dermis. Varying the oil formulation allows the achievement of a high content of antioxidants in a natural vegetable oil using an oleo-eco extraction process. However, it was necessary to characterize this content using quantitative and efficient methods such as High-Performance Thin-Layer Chromatography technique. The aim of this work was to develop a method of antioxidant’s characterization with this technique without a preliminary re-extraction of the antioxidants.

Highlights

Nowadays, the integration of antioxidants in cosmetic, food and pharmaceutical products is a standard procedure to counterbalance oxidative stress generated in our everyday life (Bezerra et al, 2017; Valko et al, 2007)
The Electron paramagnetic resonance (EPR) technique makes it possible to evaluate the capacity of polyphenols solubilized in the oil to trap the free radicals, whereas the Folin method makes it possible to titrate the amount of polyphenol in a non-specific way
The results show that the efficiency of polyphenols extraction from the same olive leaves source depends on the oily matrix

Summary

Introduction

The integration of antioxidants in cosmetic, food and pharmaceutical products is a standard procedure to counterbalance oxidative stress generated in our everyday life (Bezerra et al, 2017; Valko et al, 2007). O. Fadel et al.: OCL 2018, 25(5), D506 the main source of olive leaves for the extraction of antioxidant. The oleuropein, from the secoiridoid polyphenol family, is the major constituent found in the olive-leaf extract from Olea europaea. It is a hydroxytyrosol ester with b-glucosylated elenolic acid. Others flavonoids are present in olive leaves, either in an aglycone form (apigenin, luteolin) or in a glycosylated one (luteolin-7-O-glucoside)

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Conclusion