Sea Buckthorn Oil—A Valuable Source for Cosmeceuticals

Marijana Koskovac,Snezana Cupara,Olivera Milovanovic,Marija Markovic,Mihailo Kipic,Ksenija Kojicic,Ana Barjaktarevic

doi:10.3390/cosmetics4040040

Marijana Koskovac, Snezana Cupara + Show 5 more

Open Access

https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics4040040

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Journal: Cosmetics	Publication Date: Oct 16, 2017
Citations: 31	License type: CC BY 4.0

Affiliation: University of Kragujevac, University of Nis

Abstract

Sea buckthorn (Hippophae rhamnoides L., Elaeagnaceae.) is a thorny shrub that has small, yellow to dark orange, soft, juicy berries. Due to hydrophilic and lipophilic ingredients, berries have been used as food and medicine. Sea buckthorn (SB) oil derived from berries is a source of valuable ingredients for cosmeceuticals. The unique combination of SB oil ingredients, in qualitative and quantitative aspects, provides multiple benefits of SB oil for internal and external use. Externally, SB oil can be applied in both healthy and damaged skin (burns or skin damage of different etiology), as it has good wound healing properties. Due to the well-balanced content of fatty acids, carotenoids, and vitamins, SB oil may be incorporated in cosmeceuticals for dry, flaky, burned, irritated, or rapidly ageing skin. There have been more than 100 ingredients identified in SB oil, some of which are rare in the plant kingdom (e.g., the ratio of palmitoleic to γ-linolenic acid). This review discusses facts related to the origin and properties of SB oil that make it suitable for cosmeceutical formulation.

Highlights

Sea buckthorn (SB) (Hippophae rhamnoides L.) is a thorny, soil-adhering, deciduous shrub or small tree [1,2]
SB oil can be obtained from two parts of the plant-seed or pericarp
Both oils contain a wide range of essential unsaturated fatty acids (UFAs), in particular palmitoleic acid (C16:1), which is highly valued in cosmetology

Summary

Introduction

Sea buckthorn (SB) (Hippophae rhamnoides L.) is a thorny, soil-adhering, deciduous shrub or small tree [1,2]. It is naturally found in Northern and Central Europe, Caucasus, and Asia (Siberia, China, and Tibet). Since it has been recognized as a highly valuable plant, SB has been cultivated in different parts of the world, including many countries in Europe, Canada, Russia, and China. Triglycerides, the main constituents of SB oil, due to their fatty acid content (Table 1), are responsible for maintaining the hydration of epidermis by creating an occlusive film on the skin [5,6]

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