Scientific Investigation of Metal Threads from Medieval Gold Brocaded Velvets by Modern Microanalytical Techniques

Zizi Ileana Balta,Ioana Demetrescu,Mihai Lupu

doi:10.37358/rc.20.5.8130

Abstract

This study�s aim was to bring to light part of the hidden secrets of some important and valuable historical textiles beautifully adorned with precious metal threads, medieval gold brocaded velvet fragments and court vestments, which are preserved in the treasury collections of some of the most important monasteries and museums in our country. These precious metal thread textiles, includes historical and artistic information, as well as important scientific data regarding the materials and techniques used, their origin, provenience and dating, information that being revealed, have harmoniously blended and intertwined.

Highlights

The practice of decorating and adorning textiles and clothing with precious metal threads is an ancient tradition that had been practiced in various forms from the earliest times until the present days
Micro-Particle Induced X-ray Emission (PIXE) combined with microscopy and Rutherford Backscattering Spectrometry (RBS) add important contribution and reveal new insights into the micro-chemical nature and complex structure of the very small and extremely thin golden threads for an accurate and complete characterization, allowing simultaneously determination of the chemical composition and distribution in the sample of the major, minor and trace elements by the use of micron-sized proton beams
Samples were selected from three different categories of medieval velvet brocades with known or unknown provenience and consistent dating as appear in the historical literature: (i) velvet brocade textiles with an embroidered inscription of donation, usually used as tomb covers or liturgical textiles; (ii) velvet brocade fragments, typological and stylistically similar, but with no inscription of donation, for liturgical purposes during the religious service; and (iii) velvet brocade gold cloths worn as court garments and vestments of Italian or Oriental influence by the Moldavian and Wallachian princes, princesses or boyars

Summary

Introduction

The practice of decorating and adorning textiles and clothing with precious metal threads is an ancient tradition that had been practiced in various forms from the earliest times until the present days. Metal threads being transportable materials of trading, it is possible that the ratios between their constituents, major, minor or trace elements, to may suggest their provenance and origin, or the manufacturing and distribution sites without indicating the sites of the weaving centers. Micro-PIXE combined with microscopy and RBS add important contribution and reveal new insights into the micro-chemical nature and complex structure of the very small and extremely thin golden threads for an accurate and complete characterization, allowing simultaneously determination of the chemical composition and distribution in the sample of the major, minor and trace elements by the use of micron-sized proton beams.

Objectives

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Conclusion