Abstract

Textile metal threads were used to decorate historical Croatian textiles. There are three basic types of metal threads usually used on historical textiles in Croatia. These are narrow stripes, wires, and combined metal textile yarn called “srma”, made of metal thread spirally wrapped around the nonmetal textile yarn. Textile yarns were made of silk, linen, wool, or cotton. Metal threads were primarily made of gold, silver, and copper, and different alloys of these metals or threads are layered in the structure. Analysis of metal threads with three different methods was made and the most adequate method for the analysis of metal threads from historical textiles was established. Metal thread analysis was performed with scanning electron microscopy with an energy-dispersive X-ray detector (SEM-EDX), which was determined to be the most suitable for the analysis of historical textiles if cross-section analysis of metal threads is also performed. Textile threads from combined metal textile threads were analysed with a light microscope. This information of the metal threads’ content and structure as well as the composition of textile thread can lead to an understanding of the technology of production threads and also temporal and spatial dating of textile objects which is helpful to conservators and restorers of valuable historical textiles.

Highlights

  • Precious metals have been used to decorate textiles since ancient times to create luxury items for the secular and religious elite

  • The topic of this paper is the analysis of metal threads and textile yarns wrapped with metal threads from Croatian historical textiles

  • Valuable historical textiles decorated with metal threads are found on liturgical vestments and folk costumes and are kept in museums and church treasuries throughout Croatia

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Summary

Introduction

Precious metals have been used to decorate textiles since ancient times to create luxury items for the secular and religious elite. The topic of this paper is the analysis of metal threads and textile yarns wrapped with metal threads from Croatian historical textiles. The analysis of metal threads in historical textiles enables the correct choice of methods for cleaning, conservation, and restoration of old, historically very valuable textile materials [4]. Valuable historical textiles decorated with metal threads are found on liturgical vestments and folk costumes and are kept in museums and church treasuries throughout Croatia. Metal threads have some other roles such as strengthening the material and removing static electricity or electromagnetic radiation and they appear on some other textile items [6]. For the purpose of this paper, only older threads from the period from the 17th to the mid 20th century were analysed. Thread collection was carried out from all over Croatia from all of its different regions

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