Sago: A Disparaged but Essential Food of the Abelam of Papua New Guinea

Abstract

Sago is a starchy food processed from the pith of the sago palm. Although it is their staple in the lean time between the harvests of more savory options, the Abelam people of Papua New Guinea do not relish it. The interlude between yam harvests has been called the “hungry time” (though there is plenty to eat) both because of the perceived unpalatability of sago and the monotony of a sago-based diet. But the sago palm has many advantages: it is long-lived, requires little attention, and can be harvested almost any time. It serves both as seasonal fare and as an emergency food supply for hard times, insuring against crop failure and providing food security. Sago protected the Abelam during the severe drought of 1997–98 and its aftermath, and is now supplementing their diet as they recover from the 2015 El Niño drought. Why, then, is it so disparaged? This article argues that Abelam traditionally regarded themselves as “People of the Yam,” viewing sago as prototypically “Not Yam.” Sago grows in less preferred environments with little effort. Its consistency and taste, symbolism, and imagery are all in direct opposition to the yam. By acting as a foil for the yam, sago allows Abelam to reinforce their distinctiveness as a people. Disdaining sago provides an avenue for expressing self-identity and valorizing a preferred food.