Abstract

China is hailed as a country with a long history of producing silk and is known for the development and evolution of various weaving structures. The non-fixed four-warp leno is an ancient textile that is well-known for its soft, thin, airy texture and high quality. Unfortunately, the production method and apparatus have been lost. This research thus focuses on the development of a novel weaving technology and system to produce the non-fixed four-warp leno. Its major mechanism involves (1) an innovative synchronized vertical and horizontal lifting system to alter the current rigid one that can only produce a simple fixed leno; (2) an effective distance control technology to achieve flexible yet accurate placement of warps for leno formation without limitations on leno pattern and structures; and (3) an alternative method for securing the clearance of the shed to eliminate undesirable twine. It will thus contribute to a breakthrough in weaving technology, functional textiles and aesthetic design. The development of mechanized weaving can enable mass production and mass coverage, eventually contributing to the transmission of special techniques and the sustainable development of high value-added textile products.

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