Abstract

Cotton fabric containing a large number of neps was dyed with each of 17 azo direct dyes. Visible coverage of neps composed of immature fibres varied widely among the dyes. An evaluation of those structural characteristics of the dyes that might account for their differential ability to achieve coverage of neps was undertaken. Direct dyes containing more than one amino or amido group in their structure were found most likely to achieve relatively good nep coverage. Scanning electron micrographs revealed considerable variation in the types of fibres making up the individual neps in a single piece of cotton fabric. Differences in direct dye behaviour towards nep coverage were most evident with those neps composed of immature fibres with some secondary wall development.

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