Abstract
As the popularity of a cosmetic product on the market extensively depends on consumers’ perception, it is important for the sensory evaluation to be accurate during the product developmental stage. The focus of this study was to develop a generic method for the quantitative assessment of the sensory attributes of cosmetic creams. Four 100 g oil-in-water (O/W) model creams, containing loaded niosomes and their baselines (without niosomes), were formulated. Quantitative sensory evaluation of the formulated oil-in-water products were performed in three different stages: (a) appearance—pourability (b) pick-up—firmness and elasticity/stretchability (c) rub-out—spreadability and stickiness, using rheological measurements. All measurements were carried out at skin temperature, 32 ± 1 °C, and a relative humidity (RH) of 33%. The quantitative analysis showed all cream models exhibited shear-thinning, non-Newtonian behavior. Rheological parameters from the yield stress, amplitude sweep and frequency sweep tests were found to provide realistic correlations for the sensory characteristics of pourability and spreadability, firmness, elasticity/stretchability and stickiness, respectively. This novel quantitative assessment method of the sensory characteristics of a cream proved to be highly effective and can be universally applied.
Highlights
The success of a cosmetic product on the market is largely dependent on the consumers’ perception and the organoleptic profile of the product [1,2]
As consumer perception a cosmeticproduct product is determinant of market approval ofof a cosmetic is an animportant important determinant of market approval and success, sensory assessment is a mandatory step in the claims substantiation stage and success, sensory assessment is a mandatory step in the claims substantiation stage of of a product’s the market
We report a new test protocol, which correlates the rheological parameters of
Summary
The success of a cosmetic product on the market is largely dependent on the consumers’ perception and the organoleptic profile of the product [1,2]. Into a more sophisticated protocol involving extensive training, selection of panelists and sensory descriptive terms, before being absorbed by other European countries [3,4,5,6,7]. The sensory assessment method outlined by the ISO standard allows the qualitative and quantitative description of the attributes of a cosmetic product, providing accurate measurements [9]. It is a widely used tool during the product development stage, involving the adoption of a simple descriptive lexicon, a controlled environment, and 10–20 extensively trained panelists or judges that qualify the products provided based on their honest verbal perceptions (i.e., feel, fragrance and appearance), as well as quantifying the test products by assigning scores to each perception or attribute on a scale. A statistical (ANOVA) tool is applied to compare the attributed scores and performance evaluation of the individual judges to assess data reproducibility and quality, respectively [9,10]
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