Proses Pewarnaan Benang Katun Menggunakan Ekstrak Daun Surian Untuk Bahan Tenun Songket

Abstract

Staining with natural materials is used again for songket weaving materials because the use of synthetic dyes brings negative impacts on the environment and humans. So the author has conducted research on the processing of natural dyes and the coloring process on cotton thread for songket weaving on Dolas Songket in Lunto Timur Village, Sawahlunto City. The thread uses extract from Surian leaves for its coloring. This study uses a qualitative method, which is the informant in this study, namely the owner of Dolas Songket and the craftsmen community at Dolas Songket in Lunto Timur Village, Sawahlunto City. Data collection techniques used are observation, interview and documentation. The findings in the field are as follows: 1) The process of making leaf color extract with a ratio of 1: 5,leaves as much as 1 kilogram and 5 liters of water, the leaves are extracted by boiling it for 1 hour, then boiling water from Surian leaves is filtered, and cooled. 2) The process of dyeing threads using Surian leaf extract, the first stage in thread dyeing is mordanting cotton thread using tawas,this process is meant to make the thread is clean from dirt that is stuck by boiling the thread in tawas liquid for 1 hour, then dried. The next process is dipping the thread using Surian leaf extract for 24 hours or more, the next step is the thread that has absorbed Surian leaf extract in fixation using tawas fixation, tunjung, and kapur barus is done for 24 hours, the last stage is fading of the thread that has been fixed so that the color not fade when washing again. The color produced from the staining of cotton thread with surian leaf extract is black with tunjung fixator, young orange with kapur barus fixator, and young yellow with tawas fixator. Keywords: Coloring Process, Cotton Thread, Surian Leaf Extract, Yarn Coloring, Songket Weaving Material.