Abstract
ABSTRACTThis paper describes a predictive model of asymmetric time history of wave-induced near-bottom velocity in the surf zone. Relationships between Fourier components of the velocity history and various hydraulic parameters were investigated using Laser-Doppler measurements. A numerical model was developed for wave transformation and near-bottom kinematics in the surf zone on the basis of a nonlinear dispersive long wave theory. The validity of the model was confirmed through comparison with laboratory data as well as with nonlinear wave theories. The applicability of the model to random wave conditions was also confirmed.
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