Prediction of Development of Sand Spits and Cuspate Forelands of Rhythmic Shapes as Shoreline Instability using BG model

Abstract

The high-angle wave instability problem defined by Ashton et al. was numerically solved using the BG model proposed by Serizawa et al. The development of sand spits was predicted under the oblique wave incidence that the angle between the direction normal to the shoreline and wave direction becomes larger than 45°, given an infinitesimal perturbation to the initial topography. In this model, not only the shoreline configuration but also three-dimensional topographic changes around the sand spits can be predicted.