Physical and Numerical Modeling of Irregular Wave Transformation over a Fringing Reef

Abstract

ABSTRACT Shin, S.; Kim, Y.T., and Lee, J.I., 2016. Physical and Numerical Modeling of Irregular Wave Transformation over a Fringing Reef. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 922–926. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208. Two-dimensional laboratory experiments were conducted to investigate cross-shore variations of wave transformation, setup, and breaking phenomena over a fringing reef. Various conditions of irregular waves were generated by changing a water depth, a wave period, and a wave height. A multi-layer Boussinesq model was used to predict the wave transformation and the results were compared to the experimental results. One-layer and two-layer model configurations were selected to figure out and compare the model capability. In the model and data comparisons, both models well predicted the wave transformation characteristic...