Abstract
This study uses a sociomaterial practice theoretical lens to explore the learning processes and outcomes of non-professional menders emerging through their participation in communal mending workshops. Recent years have witnessed an emergence of repair workshops that seek to provide an alternative to the make-take-waste paradigm dominating the fast fashion industry in most Western countries. The paper is based on three months of extensive fieldwork in six repair workshops in two cities in New Zealand (Auckland and Wellington). Thirty-five in-depth interviews, eight follow-up surveys and field notes from participant observations were used to collect data. A triangulation of the methods and open coding helped identify three types of learning streams from the data: material learning, communal learning, and environmental learning. The learned outcomes aided in equipping participants with knowledge of how to mend, extend use of existing garments, address alternatives to garment disposal, create feelings of caring, self-reliance and empowerment in communities, and differentiate between good- and bad-quality garments. In this way, communal workshops help users to be more proactive in providing sustainable local solutions to global ecological problems and create diversified learning around sociomaterial and ecological aspects of garments and their use. This could potentially create awareness of the importance of buying better and more durable garments in the future to keep them longer in use.
Highlights
Mending has been identified as crucial to supporting garment longevity while addressing sustainable transitions within clothing use practices [1,2,3,4,5,6]
The three groups chosen for the study shared two major motivations: a strong emphasis on reducing waste in local communities by mending garments, and capacity-building through sharing knowledge of how to mend
The present study confirmed the existence of four types of menders, who are similar in their practices of mending as those seen in an earlier study [26]
Summary
Mending has been identified as crucial to supporting garment longevity while addressing sustainable transitions within clothing use practices [1,2,3,4,5,6]. The fast fashion industry has created a culture of overconsumption, in which consumers frequently dispose their garments and replace them with new ones. This has led to a reduction in the use-time of garments [4]. By offering an alternative approach to mending, the Foundation set up various cafés where people could gather to learn from those who knew how to repair, free of charge. All of which offer free spaces to people where they can come and either utilize the provided material to mend garments, learn how to mend first-hand or get assistance in their mends while working together with expert menders
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