Ostrich eggshell bead-making in East Africa: a study of crafting in the El Molo community, Kenya

Abstract

ABSTRACT Ostrich eggshell beads have been produced by African societies for over 50,000 years and are still used in East Africa and elsewhere, yet the only well-documented ethnographic record of their manufacture comes from San and Bakgalagadi communities in the Kalahari region of southern Africa. Even so, some aspects of their social significance have not been extensively explored. In particular, research on ostrich eggshell beads in southern Africa has historically focused largely on the use of beads in exchange contexts with less emphasis on their use in bodily adornment or the social contexts of manufacture and consumption. This paper reports on the production process and cultural significance of ostrich eggshell beads among the El Molo community of Marsabit County, Kenya. Undertaken as part of the British Museum’s Endangered Materials Knowledge Program (EMKP), this project used unstructured interviews, participatory videos, photography and note-taking to document the entire process of ostrich eggshell bead manufacture, including the collection of hammer stones (soit), the making of strings (arkat) for stringing the beads, the breaking of shells, shaping and rounding, stringing and the making of diverse beadwork items, including rumirumi, kukuti, karkato, lilim and rarak. The social significance of these various items is also reported. This study helps to preserve this knowledge and the continuation of the craft in the community, while also providing data for the enrichment of interpretations of ostrich eggshell beads from archaeological collections in the region, which have received inadequate research attention. The project represents the first detailed ethnographic work ever undertaken on ostrich eggshell beads in East Africa. The materials produced will be available on the EMKP open access online repository.