ORNAMENTAL MOTIVES OF NATIONAL CLOTHING EMBROIDERY OF THE TRANSCARPATHIA OF THE END OF THE XIX - FIRST HALF OF THE XX CENTURY (ON THE EXAMPLE OF THE FUND COLLECTION OF THE TRANSCARPATHIAN MUSEUM OF FOLK ARCHITECTURE AND LIFE)

Abstract

The article on the basis of available literature and fund collection of Transcarpathian Museum of Folk Architecture and Life analyzes the patterns of clothing and interior embroidery collected by Maria Hrytsak. The author attempts to identify the most characteristic features of folk embroidery of the villages of Volovets, Tyachiv, Khust, Vynohradiv, Berehiv and Mukachevo districts. Most of the designs are fragments of embroidery from women's and men's shirts. This is a pleated part, narrow collar, embroidery on the sleeves and cuffs of women's shirts, as well as bibs and collar of men's shirts. They are chronologically dated to the late XIX and early XX centuries. For the Boykos of Transcarpathia, the embroidery of women's shirts is characterized by the embroidery of the chest part, the upper shoulder part of the sleeves and cuffs. One or three-row geometric compositions are dominate, in the 20-30's of the XX century stylized plants, rarely ornithomorphic were distributed. Folk embroidery of Dolinians of Tereblia is distinguished by lush ornamental compositions on the sleeves of women's shirts. There are several types of shirts that can be distinguished: zaspulnytsia, rukavy, kosutsia, bilenitsia. Special attention is deserved to the patterns of embroidery on the chest of men's festive shirts of the 20's and 40's of the XX century. A characteristic feature of the embroidery of the Dolinians of Korolevo was the use of threads of different colors. The embroidery of this region is characterized by five color variants. For embroidery of women's and men's shirts from the village Zavydovo of the Mukachevo district was characterized by the use of two techniques - the cross and the nyzyna. The most common were geometric floral ornamental compositions. In the embroidery of the village of Muzhievo in the Berehiv district, we observe mutual influences, as plant motives are dominant. Despite the Hungarian influences, the local embroidery still retains the geometric characteristic of the traditional Ukrainian embroidery of Transcarpathia. Realistic forms are very rare.