Abstract
Considering the importance of an adequate composition of the formulation in the development of stable, safe and effective cosmetic products, experimental design techniques are tools that can optimize the formulation development process. The objective of this study was to develop topical formulations using the Box-Behnken design with response surface methodology and evaluate its physical, sensory and moisturizing properties. The experimental design used in the first step allowed to identify and to quantify the influence of raw materials, as well as the interaction between them. In the second step, the analysis identified the influence of soy lecithin, the phytantriol and capric acid triglyceride and caprylic on the consistency index, stickiness and greasiness and skin hydration. Cetearyl alcohol, dicetyl phosphate and cetyl phosphate 10EO and acrylates/C10-30 alkylacrylate crosspolymer showed effects in rheological parameters. The addition of soy lecithin had significant effects in terms of consistency index, stickiness, oiliness and immediate moisturizing effects. Phytantriol showed effects on increasing consistency index and oiliness sensation. Thus, the experimental design was shown to be an effective tool for research and development of cosmetics, since it allowed the assessment of the individual and interaction effects of raw materials in the responses: rheological parameters, sensory and clinical efficacy.
Highlights
The process of cosmetic skin care formulations development involves detailed research and careful selection of raw materials
Considering the importance of the adequate composition on the developments of cosmetic formulations, the experimental design is a significant tool as it allows the analysis of many variables, called factors, of a productive process, and allows to obtain a higher number of information using a smaller number of experiments (Costa-Machado, Bastos, de Freitas, 2013; Ferreira et al 2007; Tacon, Freitas, 2013)
Few studies have been found in the literature using factorial design of experiments in cosmetic development area
Summary
The process of cosmetic skin care formulations development involves detailed research and careful selection of raw materials. In this step, properties as stability, pH of the active ingredients, sensory characteristics, interactions between ingredients and Considering the importance of the adequate composition on the developments of cosmetic formulations, the experimental design is a significant tool as it allows the analysis of many variables, called factors, of a productive process, and allows to obtain a higher number of information using a smaller number of experiments (Costa-Machado, Bastos, de Freitas, 2013; Ferreira et al 2007; Tacon, Freitas, 2013). Among the experimental design methods usually employed, factorial design is the most appropriate.
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