Optimal configuration of confocal Raman spectroscopy for precisely determining stratum corneum thickness: Evaluation of the effects of polyoxyethylene stearyl ethers on skin

Abstract

Properties regarding stratum corneum (SC), the outermost membrane of the skin, remain an active area in dermatologic and cosmetic research. The reduced thickness of SC is associated with varied adverse statuses such as skin lipid deficiency, skin barrier dysfunctions and skin deceases, etc. Emulsifiers with existing irritative effects on skin components also face the risk of decreasing SC thickness. We have been focusing on the effects of PEGylated emulsifiers on the skin and have an interest in finding the role of their polyethylene glycol (PEG)-chain length in tuning skin irritations. With this aim, PEG-stearyl ethers with different numbers of hydrophilic chains were applied on the skin, and their influence on skin thickness was discovered to determine their skin barrier effect. Confocal Raman spectroscopy (CRS) with extensive application in skin research was used here. To obtain the precise determination of skin thickness, our secondary aim was to find the optimal CRS configuration referring to varied objectives and pinhole sizes where further study is still in demand. Therefore, SC thickness measured via eddy current approach served as reference. The applied PEG-stearyl ethers formed the system to achieve varied thicknesses. Results confirmed that the skin interactions rose with increasing PEG-chain length, however only up to a certain limit, with decreasing effects recorded from PEG-40 stearyl ether and no effects observed from PEG-100 stearyl ether. Simultaneously, CRS combined with water immersion objective and 50 μm pinhole presented the most consistent values to the references and exhibited better spectral intensity and signal-to-noise ratio. Correlation plots involving different cases of configurations were calculated for error corrections. Taken together, this work helps to identify the potential mechanisms governing the interactions between PEG-stearyl ethers and skin and offers powerful evidence of using CRS as a reliable alternative to obtain accurate thickness values.