Numerical Simulation Study on Interactions between the Wave and Newborn Sandbank in the Xisha Islands of the South China Sea

Abstract

As a unique landform in the island and reef area, the newborn sandbank is not only the initial stage of island development, but also has a rapid evolution and a complex dynamic mechanism. However, the dynamic geomorphology mechanism of the newborn sandbank is still lacking extensive study and direct evidence of the interaction process between the marine dynamics and the newborn sandbank geomorphology. Therefore, in order to reveal the interaction mechanisms between marine dynamics and newborn sandbanks, a newborn sandbank in the sea area of the Xisha Islands, in the South China Sea, has been selected as the focus of this research. The method of numerical simulation was used to discuss and analyze the wave field characteristics around the newborn sandbank and their impacts on the sandbank’s migration and development. The results show that: (1) The islands and reefs have significant refraction, diffraction, and energy dissipation effects on waves, and the newborn sandbank has the same effect, but with a weaker function. The wave height around the reef islands reduced by approximately 60–67% in dominated and strong wave directions. At the same time, the wave height attenuation in the wave shadow zone, behind the newborn sandbank, can reach approximately 27–33%. (2) Wind is important for the evolution of wave fields; in particular, when the wind speed exceeds grades four and five, the effect of the wind on the waves is particularly significant, causing the winds to control the wave characteristics around the islands and newborn sandbanks. This results in significant seasonal differences in wave fields within the sea area. (3) The wave direction primarily controls the migration direction of the newborn sandbank, and the wave height primarily controls the migration speed and distance. After one month of wave action in the strong wave direction, the maximum eastward deposition length was approximately 50 m. After one month of wave action in the dominated wave direction, the maximum eastward deposition length was approximately 60 m. Therefore, the topography of the newborn sandbank affects the wave propagation, meanwhile, the wave conversely determines migration and development of the newborn sandbank in a short term. The dynamic geomorphology action between the wave and newborn sandbank is a fast two-way process, and occurs not only during storms or the winter monsoon, but also during other, more common, weather events.