Novel approach for predicting wave run-up on natural beaches

Abstract

The evaluation of wave run-up on beaches is of significant importance since it is used in different coastal engineering and management applications, including the assessment of beach morphology, the determination of erosion and flooding risk, and the design and maintenance of coastal structures. The main aim of this paper is to present a new method of wave run-up prediction, which is intended to be applicable to the various types of natural beaches. A single formulation was established for beaches, which were categorised as dissipative, reflective and intermediate. This comprehensive parametric run-up model, which included both wave set-up and swash excursion, was specifically developed to represent the wide-ranging conditions experienced in the swash zone in terms of beach conditions. The run-up model included a means to account for obliquely incident waves, varying foreshore sediment characteristics and the infiltration/exfiltration processes during swash events; it also used fitting parameters to account for other site-specific conditions. The novel run-up model produced comparable results to other parametric models, and showed good correlation with laboratory data and limited field data. However, while the model was deemed suitable to be adopted at varying coastal sites, field data are required for implementation to yield meaningful output.