Molecular insights into fragrance release from SDS and SLES micelles

Abstract

Understanding the interaction between fragrance and surfactant micelles is essential for formulators to develop performing fragrant products. The equilibrium of fragrances in micellar solution of two commonly used surfactants in home and body care industries, namely sodium dodecyl sulphate (SDS) and sodium lauryl ether sulphate (SLES), has been investigated. The difference between SDS and SLES in the release of fragrant compounds is assessed by headspace measurements and explained at a molecular level by the different solubilization sites of the perfume within the micellar systems. Diffusion-Ordered Nuclear Magnetic Resonance Spectroscopy (DOSY NMR) shows that SLES micelles solubilize less fragrance than SDS. Subsequently, a shift from fragrance positioning through the water phase from SDS to SLES system is shown with COSMOmic calculations. This study brings knowledge on fragrance/surfactant interactions and shows the interest of using a computational method to screen and compare fragranced surfactants systems allowing formulators to anticipate the performance of their products.