Modeling investigation of wave-induced longshore current distribution patterns on barred beaches

Abstract

A three-dimensional coupled wave-current model was employed to investigate the wave-induced longshore currents on barred beaches. The modeling system was developed by coupling the finite-volume community ocean model (FVCOM) and the simulating waves nearshore (SWAN) model to fully describe wave-current interactions in the nearshore region. The three-dimensional radiation stress, surface rollers and wave-enhanced turbulent mixing were incorporated as the major wave effects on currents. The model was first evaluated against data collected from multiple sets of laboratory experiments. Diagnostic simulations demonstrated that the contributions of the wave rollers and wave-induced mixing, in addition to the radiation stress, were important for ensuring accurate calculations. Then, the longshore current patterns on barred beaches were investigated through simulations of a series of test cases under controlled conditions. The cross-shore distribution of wave-induced longshore currents, which predominantly occurred within the barred beach surf zone, usually exhibited bimodal characteristics. The maximum peak longshore current velocity was positively correlated with the incident wave height and period. As the bar height and width increased, the first velocity peak of the longshore current strengthened, while the second peak weakened. In most cases, the maximum longshore current velocity on a barred beach coincided with the first peak, which could occur anywhere from the bar-trough region to the bar-crest region, depending on the wave and bar heights. This finding could be used to clarify the cross-shore location discrepancies in the maximum peak longshore current velocity reported in previously published studies.