Measuring and Interpreting Fabric Low Stress Mechanical and Surface Properties

Abstract

The concepts of overall handle discussed in Part IV of this series [21] for men's suiting fabrics are explained in this analysis using descriptors called handle attributes. Definitions and English word descriptors are provided for the Japanese primary hand expressions isolated by the Hand Evaluation and Standardisation Committee for these fabric types. Sleekness, fullness, firmness, and drape are isolated as the relatively in dependent descriptors of handle for winter fabrics. Similarly, firmness/hardness, crispness, and fullness also characterize men's suitings. From the results of two inter national studies of handle preferences, judges prefer a sleek, full handle with relatively little stiffness and good drape for winter fabrics. There are strong national preferences for the handle of summer fabrics: there is a common handle assessment for Australian, New Zealand, Indian, U.S., and Hong Kong/Taiwanese panels of judges. There are different, and in some sense opposite, handle preferences for the Japanese and P.R.C. (Chinese) panels, who are mutually consistent. These judges prefer a firm, crisp, hard handle for summer fabrics, while the remaining five national panels exhibit opposite preferences.