Measuring and Interpreting Low-Stress Fabric Mechanical and Surface Properties

Abstract

The concept of using engineering principles as an aid in designing textile fabrics with desirable aesthetic characteristics is further developed. Fundamental to this ap proach is the measurement of fabric mechanical and surface properties, e.g., fabric tensile, shear, bending, surface, and lateral compression properties. Examples are cited of the application of these measurements to fabric finishing, drycleaning, and steam pressing, and also to the study of photodegradation effects in wool fabrics. The study has quantified the effect of scouring (during finishing of wool fabrics) and heat setting/ scouring (during finishing of wool/polyester fabrics) in reducing the rigidities and hysteresis in fabric bending and shear deformations. A marked reduction after paper pressing in fabric compressibility, thickness, and surface roughness for both wool and wool/polyester fabrics is also evaluated quantitatively. The important influence of decatizing and chemical setting on the performance of pure wool fabrics during dry cleaning and steam pressing operations is evaluated and discussed. Wool photodeg radation results in a substantial fabric tensile strength loss, marked increase in the bending and shear hysteresis and rigidities, and also a decrease in the tensile and compressional resilience.