Matrix proteins of the papillary dermis – primary targets of intrinsic dermal ageing?

Abstract

Citation: IFSCC Magazine, 11 (2008) (3) 225–229The dermis is considered a highly dynamic structure that determines the biomechanical properties of the skin. It is composed of two dermal compartments separated by a vascular plexus: the papillary dermis and the reticular dermis. In the last few years, several studies have demonstrated the role of the dermal epidermal junction in the cutaneous ageing process. Recently, teams specialized in the study of the dermal matrix have focused their studies on the superior dermis in close contact with the dermal epidermal junction: the papillary dermis. They defined the role of matrix proteins in this area. Collagens XII and XVI, non‐fibrillar collagens specific to the papillary dermis, are responsible for skin deformability and extensibility. Oxytalan fibres are related to elastic properties of the skin. Ubiquitous collagens such as collagens I and VI are associated with the cohesion and the resistance of the dermis. As the papillary dermis is the primary site of intrinsic dermal ageing, we studied expression of these molecules in our own in vitro model of intrinsic ageing of the papillary dermis. The results of this innovative approach confirmed that their expression was reduced. Nevertheless, active molecules may exist in nature that are capable of restoring a normal expression profile of these markers for a cosmetic anti‐ageing application.Keywords: Anti‐ageing, papillary dermis, collagens XVI and XII, oxytalan fibres