Kompleksnoye issledovaniye volnovykh i litodinamicheskikh protsessov v beregovoy zone p. Morskoye (Vostochnyy Krym)

Abstract

Wind waves can have a significant impact on the coastal infrastructure. The paper aims at a comprehensive study of regional characteristics of wind waves near the village of Morskoye (south-eastern coast of Crimea), which are necessary to develop a project of reconstruction of the highway adjacent to the coastal area. Space images and cartographic information were used to study the beach dynamics in the studied area. It is shown that before construction of the coast protection structures the beach width in the studied area was 25–30 m, whereas after the construction it narrowed down to 15–25 m. Based on the wind wave reanalysis data obtained using SWAN spectral model and ERA-Interim surface wind fields for 1979–2017, regime characteristics of waves in the coastal zone of Morskoye were calculated. It was found that waves with average periods of 3.0–3.5 s have the maximum recurrence (over 16 %). Wind waves coming from SE-SSE sector have the highest recurrence rate. Estimates were obtained for the extreme characteristics of wind waves that may occur once in a given number of years. The SWASH hydrodynamic model was used to perform mathematical modelling of wave run-up on the coastal area. In their calculations the authors used a regular grid of the coastal relief with high spatial resolution based on the interpolation of topo-geodetic and bathymetric survey results. An incoming wave was given as a soliton of 2.0; 3.0 and 3.4 m high. It was found that with the incoming wave height of 2.0 m, the vertical wave splash in the studied area varies within 1.7–2.2 m. At a height of 3.4 m, the splash reaches 1.8–2.9 m. In this case the beach is flooded completely. During the run-up, wave current velocity amounts up to 5 m/s. Along the lower boundary of the cliff the bottom maximum current velocity reaches 1.5–1.75 m/s. At such velocities near the cliff, the beach consisting of material with the grain size up to 60–90 mm can be eroded.